![]() well yea, you could do it that way work with me Saw, come on I still think the two straps are the easiest ways to do it, but thats just me. attach clew hook apply outhaul tightly (reduces the amount of boom flap) tie the knot release outhaul done. Frankly, by the time the wind is approaching 30 knots in a Potter I was as likely to drop the sail altogether and motor for shelter as I was to put in the second reef. No need to lean in over the transom then. Using the clew hook leaves the complication as it is now and it works well enough for the few occasions where you will actually need to put in a second reef. It makes the boom very busy with lines dangling and makes it harder to raise the sail with the second reef line that is always there almost halfway up the sail. When I first got a mainsail with two reef points on my P-15 I set up both reefs in the conventional way. Customers Also Viewed Harken 57mm Carbo Ratchamatic Block, Red Sheave 118.95 Add to Cart Sailmon Max Screen Protector - Anti Glare 29. They install permanently on the boom and allow you to instantly attach and adjust your sail in high wind and waves. You may need to slack the reef line before engaging the second reef if you had pulled the first reef really tight. The 433 dinghy clew hooks are designed for Lasers and other loose-footed dinghies. The clew hook allows you to use the one reef line for the clew on both reefs. Tension the line appropriately and you are on your way under much reduced sail. This involves having reef points on the sail that can form the new tack and clew when it is lowered, so that a slab of the sail is no longer used below the reef points. Slide your new clew hook up the reef line and put it in the clew cringle for the second reef. Now, when you want to put in the second reef pull the tack cringle down and put in on the hook at the gooseneck. ![]() Where your reef line for the clew terminates at the boom, undo the knot, slip it through the eye of the clew hook and retie the knot. I usually buy stuff from Vela Sailing Supply and they have it for $9. If you google "Laser Clew Hook" they will appear. This is cheap, simple and works better in all windstrengths - and you only have to fiddle once - when you therad the thing up! The narrow plastic 'sleve' is no wider than the velcro straps, but stays flat and stops the tie-down from 'binding'.What you need for this is a clew hook for a Laser. Cut 600 mm of rigging line, slide one end through boom end fitting, and tie 2 half hitches, pull tight 8. Need to use 2 wraps of hi strength/loe stretch line a bit finer than that supplied with the Harken Clew Hook - but the plastic 'collar' works better than teflon tubing simply because it does not let the tie-down 'bind' when pulled horizontally.Ĭost is virtually nil, and it works better than trying to rig 'inhaul' shockcord, which clutters things up, and could stop the clew tie-down rotating on the boom, resulting in an unplanned 'unhook'.Īs far as I can determine this should already be class legal - teflon tubing, roller beads and washers and velcro straps are. Slide Silicone ring, Jib Clew Hook and remaining silicone ring onto boom end ( Do Not Glue) 7. Provided this is 15-20 mm at the bottom (6 O'clock position) it can taper slightly towaeds the top. ![]() ![]() The problem of the clew tie down 'binding' on the boom as it angles from perpendicular can reduced with McLube or simmilar dry lubricant - but a simple solution (and cheap one) is to simply cut a plastic collar from a synthetic chamois holder (or other tube like container like a drink bottle) and thread the tie-down thru slits punched in it with a screwdriver at about 2, 6 and 10 O'clock (12 O'clock is the center top gap for the clew). I know the hot-shots tie the clew closer to the boom than is possible when using the Harken clew hook system but for club racing at least I have found this device very useful and troble free.
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